When most travelers think of Vietnam, they picture the limestone cliffs of Ha Long Bay or the vibrant streets of Ho Chi Minh City. If you are seeking an off-the-beaten-path adventure, though, Cao Bang Loop is the perfect answer!
Tucked away in Vietnam’s northeast corner lies one of Southeast Asia’s best-kept secrets: the Cao Bang Loop. This remote motorcycle circuit sitting right at the edge of Vietnam-China border has plenty to offer, alright! It has jaw-dropping natural landscapes, authentic encounters, and bucketloads of unexpected challenges that will test your adventurous spirit (and general willpower 😂).
Cao Bang province itself is filled with mountainous terrain, which is recognized by UNESCO, and borders China. The province is populated by various ethnic groups, namely the Tay, Hmong, Nung,
Part 1 will be about logistics, avoiding scammers, and the vibrant Cao Bang City! Find out the best way to get from Hanoi to Cao Bang City to start your Cao Bang Loop adventure.
Getting There: Journey into Cao Bang City 🏞️
Flying from Jakarta to Hanoi 🛫
Our Cao Bang adventure began with a VietJet flight into Hanoi, Vietnam’s chaotic yet charming capital. I was nervous at first- anticipating the worst, honestly. We booked this Jakarta-Hanoi flight last minute and only later on discovered all the warnings about this particular airline. From horror stories on TikTok about strict cabin baggage weighing, nightmarish queue, to extended delays- it seemed like this airline has really bad rep online.
Pro Tip: General consensus is to book Vietnam Airlines- NOT VietJet!
Thankfully flying from Jakarta to Hanoi was not the pain in the behind we thought it was going to be. Though VietJet insisted on printed boarding passes- even with online check-in- Soekarno-Hatta Airport accepted our online check-in QR. They said it was okay as long as we are not transferring to another city (Hanoi was our final destination).
This was good news since the check-in counters had really long queues with bare bones staff. We weighed our carry-ons beforehand, but it was not strictly weighed prior to boarding. The plane interior was standard, and we had no delays. There was no complimentary food nor drink- but it was expected since this is a budget airline.
The plane took 4 hours 15 minutes to reach Hanoi’s Noi Bai International Airport (HAN). Aside from turbulences here and there, it was a relatively smooth flight. Especially if you prepare your drinks and snacks beforehand! 😁
Pro Tip: Always have snacks and drinks on hand when flying on budget airlines! 🧋
Scammer Alert! 🚨
I did some research on Hanoi and Vietnam beforehand, and the overwhelming consensus on Reddit was that the city is chock-full of scammers.. 😥
Some reportedly common scams are:
- Airport taxi: Scammers can up charge the airport transfer cost by taking the longer route or rigging their meters. Another case is if the meter is conveniently “broken” and they charge an exorbitant fee once you reach your destination.
- Wrong change: Tourists might not be familiar with Vietnamese bills. Scammers take advantage of this by giving the wrong change amount- or even swapping the original note with a smaller amount!
- Pickpockets: There are fast motorbike-riding pickpockets in Vietnam. Watch your belongings and hug your bag in front of you!
- Fruit Seller Scam: Taking pictures with local fruit vendors can be tempting. They might even offers their traditional wooden poles for you to carry & take photos with. After that- they will ask for payment. Or the scammers might just overcharge you and aggressively demand you to pay.
Best tips to avoid scammers are:
- Purchase an eSIM for Vietnam before you travel, or buy a Viettel SIM card at the airport.
- Download the Grab app and connect your credit card beforehand (if possible). The pricing is clear before you book and there are discount codes as well! Grab is the best way to get around Vietnam. This app works in Southeast Asia- in case you are visiting Indonesia, Singapore, Malaysia etc as well.
- Make sure the plate number of the driver that picks you up match the Grab app. Refuse to go with them if it differs.
- Download the Xanh SM app if you prefer taxis (these are the green taxis). You can connect your credit card as well. They are useful if you are trying to avoid surge pricing on Grab.
- Say NO firmly and do not waver, especially if you are suspicious that they might be scammers.
- Break up large bills (500K VND) in trustworthy stores (Circle K, Winmart, department stores, Vincom Mall).
- Carry two wallets– one for large bills and one for small bills (10K, 20K, 50K, 100K). Put them in two different places.
If you just want to do a day trip from Cao Bang City to all the highlights in one day, opt for this guided tour with free pickup!
Scammers at Noi Bai International Airport ‼️
Surprisingly (or not-so surprisingly..?), we encountered the airport taxi scammers at the Noi Bai International Airport. We tried to book Grab from the airport to Hanoi, but it took a REALLY long time. While waiting for a booking confirmation, a few people approached us- offering rides to the city. When they saw Grab open on our phone, they showed a translation saying that Grab is closed because of the holidays, and we should go with them instead.
It was close to Vietnam’s independence day, but it definitely did NOT make sense for a ridesharing app to not operate on holidays. We ignored them and finally got a Grab car to the city.
The pick up point is in the parking building across from Arrival hall, but it was better to walk a little than being scammed.
Pro Tip: Be wary of scams in Vietnam (Hanoi specifically)
Traveling from Hanoi to Cao Bang City
After one night in the Old Quarter, we continued our journey to Cao Bang City.
While many travelers opt for the overnight bus to Cao Bang, we chose a limousine van– a decision I’d recommend to anyone who has motion sickness or values their life.
| Sleeper Bus | Limousine Van |
|---|---|
| – Duration: 8 hours from Hanoi-Cao Bang | – Duration: 6 hours from Hanoi-Cao Bang |
| – Pick up at the bus station | – Multiple pick up points; we chose Hanoi Opera House |
| – Drop off at bus station | – Drop off at your next hotel / homestay |
| – Cost: 300K – 380K VND | – Cost: 370K – 380K VND |
| – Notorious for reckless driving & motion sickness, even scarier at night | – Notorious for reckless driving (but at least it is not a big bus) |
For the first leg of our trip, we booked Trùng Khánh Limousine on Vexere. I compared the prices to the website 12Go.asia, and Vexere is still more affordable! The van picked us up at Hanoi Opera House and the driver contacted us through WhatsApp. It will then stop at a few more places to pick up all the other passengers.
The first driver was VERY reckless- think of Vietnamese Fast & Furious franchise. I do notice that the congested local traffic is terribly unforgiving and they stop thiiissclose to you when crossing the street. One good thing is he was not constantly on his phone.
The six-hour journey winds through increasingly dramatic mountain scenery, offering a preview of the natural wonders awaiting in Cao Bang Province. With two rest stops to stretch your legs and use the bathroom, it did the job. I do recommend tourists to not drink too much water- these squat toilets were not necessarily clean.
Where to Stay in Cao Bang City
Upon arrival in Cao Bang City, we checked into Cao Bang Eco House. This homestay is a modest but comfortable base for exploring this frontier town before a Cao Bang Loop adventure. With a few hours left to wander, I discovered a city with that refreshing small-town feel. We stayed right by the Sông Bằng River, and the riverside is clean and paved nicely.
At night, the riverside becomes busy and lively, full of Cao Bang City residents enjoying their evening. Some head to restaurants in the area, slurping up bowls of local duck pho (Pho Vit). Some hang out in the cafes by the river, drinking colorful teas and chomping on sunflower seeds. One cafe, Cafe Lapin, is a noticeable favorite.
One shop rented out roller skates and helmets to energetic children. Another simply inflates a bouncy castle right by the street, filled with small children jumping and laughing with abandon. The picturesque view of children skating by the bridge that lights up colorfully at night is simply stunning. Nighttime in Cao Bang, it seems, is unforgettably vibrant.
A Culinary Adventure: Cao Bang’s Famous Banh Cuon
No visit to Cao Bang is complete without sampling the region’s famous banh cuon, a delicate rice noodle roll that locals swear by. The next morning, we eagerly sought out a recommended local eatery, anticipating a breakfast that would rival Hong Kong’s beloved cheong fun (which is incredibly similar to banh cuon). This place is called Bánh cuốn Phố Cũ, which seem to be a favorite for locals and visitors alike.
Let me paint you an honest picture though- do not expect a lot out of Vietnamese street food hygiene standards. Small cockroaches scurried across the small restaurant’s walls. I also discovered a flattened mosquito garnishing one end of my banh cuon rolls- definitely not part of the traditional recipe.
Yet despite these stomach-churning observations, the dish itself was remarkably comforting. The silky steamed rice sheets wrapped around seasoned pork, topped with crispy shallots. These steamed rolls were served with a soul-warming bone broth, containing another delicate roll and a pork sausage.
What seemed like a hybrid of cheong fun and poached egg, created a flavor profile that almost made me forget the less appetizing aspects of the experience. The pork sausage is juicy and savory, adding to the texture play that is this soup. This, I imagine, is what Cao Bang City locals would probably miss when they go out of town. A savory taste of home and a warm hug in a bowl.
Pricewise, it was incredibly affordable. One set of banh cuon rolls and soupy, brothy egg roll with sausage cost just 30k VND (that is $1.15 USD!!). Now off we go for our Cao Bang Loop adventure! 🏍️🏍️🏍️
In Part 2, let’s go into choosing a motorcycle rental for Cao Bang Loop (PLEASE do not make the same mistakes we did). The loop offers different natural wonders and cultural visits, depending on your preference! Create your ideal itinerary depending on your ideal vacation and the time you have.
If you just want to do a day trip from Cao Bang City to all the highlights in one day, opt for this guided tour with free pickup!
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