Hello Strawberry readers, last winter I had the pleasure of seeing the red-faced onsen monkeys of Nagano, Japan firsthand. These macaques are native to Japan, and they do take a dip in the hot spring during winter!
It was such a memorable trip- bullet train to snow-covered Nagano, wild monkeys soaking in hot springs, fresh ramen, and a comfy hotel with free outdoor onsen. Here is everything you need to know to visit Japan’s snow monkey onsen, Jigokudani Yaen-koen.
Where to Go to See Snow Monkeys
Snow monkeys (or onsen monkeys) are Japanese macaques that live in the mountains- almost all over the country! Most macaques do not encounter humans as they live in remote mountain forests. At the Snow Monkey Park (Jigokudani Yaen-koen) though, the facility does regular feedings that attract the snow monkeys. These are done with measures in place, to not make them dependent on humans (and they do prohibit visitors from feeding!).
The park built an open air bath for the exclusive use of snow monkeys.. but how did the snow monkeys even learn how to bathe in the hot spring?
The park claims that a young monkey was the pioneer, dipping his toes in the warm waters of the onsen to lessen the cold. Other monkeys then followed suit and adapted the habit themselves for generations. Now you can see the onsen monkeys in Nagano, Japan! π―π΅
When to Go
The monkeys bathe in the hot springs most reliably in winter (DecemberβMarch) when the cold drives them into the water. This is the iconic snow-and-monkey photo you’ve seen everywhere. We went in early December, and Nagano (and Jigokudani Yaen-koen) were already covered in snow!
That said, the park is open year-round, and we visited in the shoulder season and still saw monkeys. Just don’t go expecting a guaranteed hot spring soak from them; they move on their own schedule. π
To see the current condition of the hot springs (and to see these cute snow monkeys!), head to Jigokudani Yaen-koen’s live camera feed.
Getting There: Tokyo to Nagano
The Hokuriku Shinkansen (Kagayaki or Hakutaka services) runs direct from Tokyo Station to Nagano Station. It reaches Nagano within 1.5 hours. In my experience, it was fast, clean and comfortable. The mountain views on the way alone are already worth the trip!
If you have a JR Pass, this route is covered. If not, book tickets in advance via JR’s website or Klook. The JR Hokuriku Arch Pass covers Tokyo, Nagano, Kanazawa, and Kyoto. Prices vary depending on the service and seat type.
Day Trip to See Onsen Monkeys?
If you are short on time, you can book day trips in Nagano. Usually the group meets at Nagano Station (or Iiyama / Yudanaka Station), with free shuttle service to the onsen monkeys park. It includes admission to the historic Shibu Onsen and soba lunch as well! π
Klook also offers a day tour in English to Jigokudani Yaen-koen- which leaves from Nozawa Onsen Chuo Bus Terminal, the Iiyama Station, or Enza Cafe.
Where to Stay
Dormy Inn Nagano was where we chose to stay. Highly recommended, full stop! My partner and I enjoyed our stay very much. It’s a business hotel but punches well above its category with perks that most hotels charge extra for:
- Free onsen with an outdoor bath (rotemburo). The feeling of cold air + hot bath + night sky = amazing! It’s open late, great after a day of hiking and exploring
- Free ramen every night; a small bowl served around 21:30β23:00, a Dormy Inn tradition
- Free manga/comics library in the waiting area by the onsen (though in Japanese)
- Free massage chairs available for guest use (believe me, this was the best!!!)
- Rooms are fairly comfortable-sized by Japanese city hotel standards; not cramped
It books out fast, especially on weekends. Reserve early.
Getting to Jigokudani Yaen Koen Snow Monkey Park
By Nagaden Bus from JR Nagano Station:
- Exit from the East Exit of JR Nagano Station
- Head to Bus Stop #23 – express buses to Snow Monkey Park depart from here
- Ticket: 2,000 JPY one way. Pay cash directly to the bus driver (no IC card)
- Earliest departure from Nagano: 9:00 AM β arrives Snow Monkey Park at 9:50 AM (50 min ride)
- Return bus we took: 13:30 β back at Nagano Station by 14:25
Check the Nagaden bus timetable before you go, as schedules change by season. You can get the latest timetable at the Nagano Station Tourist Information Center- the staff were very lovely and helpful!
From the bus stop to the park: A 40-minute walk through the forest to reach the ticket booth. The trail itself is peaceful and not too steep. There were plenty of snowy pine trees, clean mountain air, the sound of the trickling water alongside you. The sunlight playing through the trees honestly made the walk one of the highlights of my day.
One warning: before you even reach the hiking trail, there’s an asphalt road section that can be very slippery in snow or ice. Wear proper shoes with grip. Not the time for fashion (safety first!).
What to Expect
Jigokudani Yaen-Koen (ε°ηθ°·ιηΏε ¬θ)
| Details | |
|---|---|
| Admission | 800 JPY adults / 400 JPY children |
| Hours (AprβOct) | 8:30β17:00 |
| Hours (NovβMar) | 9:00β16:00 |
| Open | Year-round |
We arrived just before 9:00 AM right at opening. The first thing we saw at the ticket booth was a large LED screen: “Searching for the monkeys. No estimated arrival time.” Manage your expectations, is what they were saying.
That said, spoiler alert: we did see monkeys! I had been following the live camera feed that morning, and there were one or two that I spotted earlier.
A couple of snow monkeys had wandered to the souvenir shop area and were completely unbothered by tourists; actually a bit too unbothered (you’re meant to keep 1 meter distance, which some people were not doing π¬). We spotted around 4β5 in total.
They sat near the hot spring but didn’t get in on this particular morning. No iconic bathing shot for us- but watching them move through the forest and sit at the edge of the steaming pool was still genuinely magical.
The park itself is beautiful regardless of monkey activity. The hot spring pools, the snow-dusted trees, the mist rising from the water β it’s a peaceful, otherworldly place.
Honest note: If seeing monkeys in the hot spring is your whole reason for going, visit mid-winter (JanuaryβFebruary) for the best odds. In shoulder or warmer seasons, consider it a forest hike with a bonus monkey sighting if you’re lucky.
Food
Savory
ENZA Cafe (Google Maps)
This cafe is on our way back to the Nagaden bus stop, making it the perfect post-hike stop before catching the bus back. The menu covers both Japanese and Western options (ramen, pizza, wraps). They also have an outdoor section where they sell apple pies and hot drinks!
We both got ramen:
- Chicken broth ramen (left, Β₯1,255): Clean, comforting broth, generous portion
- Zenkoji-miso chicken ramen (right, Β₯1,527): Richer and deeper, highly recommended
Both bowls were delicious and very large. A proper reward after the walk.
Nagano-ken Choju-shokudo (Google Maps)
This teishoku (set meal) restaurant is located inside Nagano Station. It is delicious and portions are hearty! You will definitely be full after eating here. We recommend the Fried Chicken Set Meal (left, Β₯1,298) and Genghis Khan Lamb Set Meal (right, Β₯1,848). These come with miso soup, side dishes, soy sauce koji, pickles, and rice.
Coffee & Drinks
Snow Monkey Coffee (ENZA Cafe): Hot coffee topped with a snow monkey marshmallow. Adorable, tasty, and very Instagram-able. Also try the local Nagano apple beer if you’re after something cold; apples are a Nagano specialty. π
Shopping
I am always on the hunt for cute souvenirs, and this time it’s no exception. Behold, my super cute snow monkey bag charm and pins! I got the bag charm and snow monkey mother-and-child pin at the Jigokudani Yaen-koen souvenir shop (by the entrance of the ticket office). The rightmost pin was from a souvenir shop right by the hiking trail entrance.
Practical Tips
- Cash for the bus: The Nagaden express bus is cash only. Have 2,000 JPY per person ready before you board.
- Shoes: Non-slip, waterproof. The asphalt stretch before the trail gets icy and slippery in winter.
- Timing: Catch the 9:00 AM bus to maximise your time at the park. We returned on the 13:30 bus which gave us about 3 hours β plenty of time including the hike and lunch.
- Monkeys: Wild animals on their own schedule. Winter visits have the best odds for hot spring bathing behaviour.
- Distance from the spring: Keep 1 metre from the monkeys at all times. They will get close; let them come to you and don’t approach.
- Day trip or overnight? Nagano absolutely warrants an overnight stay. Dormy Inn’s onsen and free ramen alone justify it. Plus Zenkoji Temple is worth a morning visit if you have extra time.
- JR Pass users: Shinkansen from Tokyo is covered. The Nagaden bus to the park is not; budget your cash separately.
Between the bullet train through the Alps, the forest hike to a steaming hot spring, monkeys doing whatever they feel like, and an outdoor onsen waiting back at the hotel β Nagano is an easy yes. It’s the kind of trip that reminds you why Japan is genuinely unlike anywhere else. ποΈ
Watch the Vlog! πΏ
If you are looking for ideas for day trips from Tokyo, a picturesque hiking trip in Japan’s Jogasaki Coast, or a day trip to Nara (with cute deers!)- stick around and browse π