This post is Part 2 of my Cao Bang adventure series. Read Part 1 here! ποΈποΈποΈ
In my previous post, I talked about the logistics. How to get from Hanoi to Cao Bang, what Cao Bang City is like, and the local cuisine. That fateful day in Cao Bang City, we finally decided to start our adventure. First thing to do: rent a motorcycle.
The Cao Bang Motorcycle Saga: Freedom & Frustration π
The real Cao Bang Loop adventure actually starts when you ride a (rental) motorcycle. Initially, we planned to rent one directly from our homestay, Cao Bang Eco House. But my husband, bless his research-loving heart, discovered another agency on Google Maps with stellar reviews. This is where our nightmare began.
Finding Our (Not-So) Dream Bike π¨
Disclaimer: I won’t name the exact rental agency- they genuinely tried their best to make things right. Sometimes trips just go sideways, and that’s travel life (we’re totally fine, promise!)
The agency was easy to locate, with smiley, welcoming owners. After checking our International Driver’s License and chatting briefly, we were set. Mrs. A, the owner, suggested a Honda strong enough for two riders on this journey.
Everything checked out perfectly during the test ride. They also lent us a pair of helmets, a rope to secure our backpacks, and some knee guards. My husband gave it a spin, we inspected the bike thoroughly, and felt confident about our choice. Famous last words, right?
We rented this semi-automatic bike for two days, which in total cost 600k VND. Double checking our planned itinerary with the rental owners, we were sure that the route we are taking is not too ambitious. As much as we’d like to see everything, we also knew that we are in a completely foreign country. So we made some room for error and wanted to take things easy.
Tbh, our itinerary was refreshingly modest, in my honest opinion. Angel’s Eye Mountain, Ban Gioc Waterfall, and Ngom Ngao Cave – basically Cao Bang’s holy trinity of natural wonders.
Little did we know what awaited us on those winding mountain roads…
Angel’s Eye Mountain (God’s Eye Mountain / NΓΊi MαΊ―t ThαΊ§n) ποΈ
Just 40 minutes away from Cao Bang City, we began the journey to Angel’s Eye Mountain. The motorcycle easily carried us through curvy mountain roads surrounded by karst rock formations and lush rice paddy fields. The asphalt was smooth, the air clean, and freedom felt abundant. There was no other tourists as far as the eye can see.
There is beauty in becoming strangers, being unfamiliar with any of our surroundings. Your way of life is exactly that, a chosen lifestyle that you can change when you want to.
Arriving at the parking lot of this legendary mountain, we were happy to find out that the trek was only 10-15 minutes. Angel’s Eye Mountain definitely delivered on its promise! It offers a unique geological formation where erosion has carved a perfect circular hole through the mountain peak. The view through this natural window frames the valley below like a painting, justifying every switchback on the climb up.
In the local Tay language, it is called “Phja Piot”- which means mountain with hole through it. This hole- a cave, really- is 50m in diameter and located 50m above the lake. Interestingly, this lake is interconnected with multiple others through underground flows. The Thang Hen Lake System has water levels that change depending on the season.
Visitors can take a boat ride on the picturesque lake below the mountain. Thinking that the view was great enough as is, we opted not to. A few pictures and videos here and there honestly does not do it justice. It’s definitely something you have to experience on your own.
Continuing the journey, we looked for the nearest gas station when we noticed our tank was running low. That is when we found out, sadly, that adventure travel rarely goes according to plan.
Motorcycle Troubles πββοΈ
After refueling, our trusty steed began showing signs of distress. The engine overheat alert was glowing red in the midday sun. Panicking a little, we stopped at the next town. I chilled at the nearby Login Cafe, where the proprietress thankfully showed us the way to a nearby repair shop.
“The coolant is low” was basically the verdict. Using body language and a Translate app, my husband managed to tell the repair shop about our angry engine. They topped it up with more coolant and told us to pour some water over the engine if it misbehaves again. They sent us back to our journey, but no, the problem was not over.
We also communicated with the rental owner from time to time, and continued on our merry way.
For a day trip to all the Cao Bang Loop highlights in one day, minus the motorcycle troubles, opt for this guided tour with free pickup!
When Adventures Turn Into Misadventures π΅
Thirty minutes later, the overheating resumed with vengeance. The final stretch to our accommodation at Lan Rung Homestay in Khuoi Ky became a test of patience and problem-solving skills that no travel guide prepares you for. Every 15 minutes, the engine temperature would spike, forcing us to stop.
Kind locals became our salvation when we asked for some water to cool the smoking engine. In hindsight, I’m still not convinced this was sound advice from the repair shop! π
Picture this: two foreigners pushing a motorcycle through a narrow dirt path between rice fields, racing against the setting sun, stopping every five minutes when the engine decided to throw another tantrum. It was simultaneously the most frustrating and oddly memorable part of our journey.
Am I grateful for the experience? Yes.
Would I voluntarily re-live a similar occasion? Hell no.
Though we do not speak their language, locals gladly helped us. They were definitely a bit surprised when someone comes with a translate app in hand and saying “Xin chao”. A smiling little girl went to get a bowl of water for us, and a group of women filled up our water bottle. I guess this is adventure, you can’t predict what’s going to happen next. Next time, we’ll definitely bring some candies or snacks for everyone!
Unexpected Delights in Khuoi Ky Stone Village πΏ
It’s not Flintstone, this ancient stone village is called Khuoi Ky!
We managed to ride the cursed motorcycle into Khuoi Ky Stone Village. Right on time, just as golden hour painted the traditional stone houses in warm light. This ancient Tay ethnic minority village, with its distinctive architecture and timeless atmosphere, almost made us forget our mechanical troubles.
The area is surrounded by lush, green mountains and clear river streams. It is idyllic and honestly is the perfect spot to stay the night on Cao Bang Loop.
In this 400-year-old stone village, all the stilt houses are made out of stone– and it can take 2-3 years to build one. A total of 14 stone houses on stilts exist in this area, occupied by 16 Tay households. Stone is sacred to the villagers, and they do worship the Stone God for protection and blessings of their domain.
Dinner with.. Bee Larvae?! ππ
Vietnam’s Independence Day had shuttered Lan Rung Homestay’s restaurant, but Tay Homestay next door welcomed us. We were honestly tired out of our minds! Despite online reviews warning of surprise dishes appearing on bills, we decided to give their restaurant a try. Perhaps they sensed our exhaustion, but the owners served exactly what we ordered.
Succulent pork belly, fresh bok choy stir-fry, and a comforting tomato-tofu combination served with warm rice. The meal tasted comforting after our challenging day. I was so, so grateful that we managed to reach the village before the sun completely set.
The menu’s “bee larvae” caught my attention, but glancing at the neighboring table I was totally shocked! Watching staff extract them from what was clearly a wasp nest corrected that translation quickly. While I pride myself on culinary adventurousness, you gotta have some boundaries in place in remote areas with limited medical facilities. Regretfully, we passed on the wasp larvae and enjoyed our nice meal.
In Part 3, we will visit the legendary Ban Gioc waterfall and Nguom Ngao Cave. Find out why people flock to this majestic waterfall in the Vietnam – China border! Also, why do locals name this limestone cave a “tiger cave”?? π―
If you just want to do a day trip from Cao Bang City to all the highlights in one day, opt for this guided tour with free pickup!
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