Jiufen & Shifen Day Trip: From Taipei to Ghibli Village

Warning: This Jiufen day trip guide contains excessive enthusiasm on local food, controversial take on cilantro, and plenty of Studio Ghibli references. Plus, stick around for Part 2 where we’ll cover the epic Shifen sky lantern adventure. Because why stop at one magical mountain town?? I’m glad we had this talk

Ever wanted to step inside a Hayao Miyazaki film? Well, pack your umbrella and prepare for a wild ride through Taiwan’s most enchanting mountain town! Jiufen Old Street isn’t just another tourist trap; it’s a living, breathing piece of history that inspired the magical bathhouse town in Spirited Away. And trust me, after spending a soggy but spectacular day there, I can totally see why this former gold mining town captured the hearts of animators and travelers alike.

For more Taiwanese adventures to Alishan and Sun Moon Lake, check out our Taiwan archives!

Why Even Go to Jiufen?

Imagine narrow alleyways lined with red lanterns, traditional tea houses perched on hillsides, and the most unique street food you’ll ever taste (yes, even in the pouring rain). Jiufen Old Street combines rich history from the Qing Dynasty with that unmistakable Studio Ghibli magic that makes you feel like you’ve wandered into an animated wonderland.

Located in northern Taiwan, around 1 hour from Taipei, Jiufen was once a booming mining town during the gold rush era. Today, it’s transformed into one of Taiwan’s most popular tourist attraction (and day trips!) from Taipei. Honestly, after my recent adventure there I completely get the hype.

Getting There: The Bus 965 Adventure 🚌

Navigating Public Transportation Made Easy

Here’s the thing about getting to Jiufen: everyone’s going to tell you different routes, but I’m here to share the real MVP: Bus 965. This golden chariot of public transportation became my best friend, and here’s why you should make it yours too:

Why Bus Number 965 from Taipei Rocks:

• Direct route from Taipei Main Station, Ximen, Beimen
• Less crowded than other options (especially compared to Bus 788 or 965 from Ruifang Station)
• Takes ~1 hour!
• No transfers
• USB charger in each seat
• Perfect for iPass / EasyCard users

Start your journey at Beimen Station or Ximen Station and hop on Bus 965. The travel time is roughly 1-1.5 hours depending on traffic, but honestly, the scenic drive through northern Taiwan is half the fun. Pro tip: grab a window seat and watch the landscape transform from urban sprawl to lush mountains.

You can tap to get in! If you haven’t gotten an EasyCard or an iPass yet, what are you even doing in Taiwan? This little plastic miracle works on buses, trains, and even some shops. Just tap and go, no fumbling with exact change while the bus driver gives you the stink eye.

Why not take the train to Jiufen?

Taking the train to Ruifang Station then a bus to Jiufen is an undeniably popular route. That is the exact problem though- it is VERY popular and VERY crowded! If you’re not going at odd hours on weekdays, you will NOT get a seat on that bus.

What about Bus 1062?

It is a good alternative- and more frequent- than Bus 965. I would recommend this route as well.

Alternative Transportation Options

Local Trains via Ruifang Station

Take the train to Ruifang Station, then catch a shuttle bus or local bus to Jiufen. This route involves more transfers but gives you that authentic local trains experience.

Private Car/Taxi

If you’re feeling fancy or traveling with a group, a private car is definitely a good option. The short drive through winding mountain roads is scenic, though be prepared for some serious hairpin turns.

Guided Tour Bus

Multiple tour companies offer day trips, and if you are short on time it would be the best option for you. A typical guided day trip usually includes Yehliu Geopark, Jiufen, and Shifen in one day. It does limit how much time you can spend in one place though!

When Weather Attacks: My Rainy Day Reality Check on Jiufen Day Trip ☔

Soo we stepped off Bus 965 feeling like travelers on a mission, ready to capture that perfect golden hour shot of Jiufen’s famous red lanterns. Instead, I was greeted by what can only be described as Noah’s Ark-level rainfall. Or an Amazon-rainforest-level, whichever is heaviest 😭

Taiwan’s weather can be unpredictable, especially in the mountains. What starts as a clear day in Taipei can quickly turn into a monsoon by the time you reach Jiufen. The narrow alleyways do provide some cover from the rain, but “some” is the operative word here; you’re definitely not staying completely dry.

​Bonus tip: It is a VERY good idea to prepare a raincoat and/or rain boots for this trip if it’s rainy season. When it rains, it POURS!

Rainy Day Strategy: When life gives you rain, find the nearest traditional restaurant and make it your temporary headquarters. Which brings me to…

Food Adventures: Jiufen Jie Jiao Traditional Diner 🥟

Seeking shelter from the downpour, I stumbled into Jiufen Jie Jiao Traditional Diner. Let me tell you, this accidental discovery turned into one of the highlights of my trip.

The Food Breakdown

Xiao Long Bao: Okay, let’s address the elephant in the room. Everyone’s going to compare these to Din Tai Fung, and honestly? They’re good, but they’re not going to blow your mind if you’ve had the gold standard. Still totally worth trying though- the skin was delicate, the broth was flavorful, and they’re served piping hot, which was exactly what I needed on this rainy day.

Braised Pork Rice (Lu Rou Fan): Now THIS is where things got interesting! The braised pork rice was absolutely divine. Tender, fatty pork over perfectly steamed rice with that rich, savory sauce that makes you understand why this is Taiwan’s comfort food. It’s simple, it’s satisfying, and it’s exactly what you want when you’re cold and wet.

Pork Vermicelli Soup – The Surprise Star: This was our unexpected favorite! My husband ordered it almost as an afterthought, but this comforting bowl of thin rice noodles in clear, flavorful broth with tender pork pieces was pure magic. It’s the kind of dish that warms you from the inside out and makes you forget about the rain drumming on the roof above.

The restaurant itself has that authentic, no-frills vibe that makes you feel like you’ve discovered a local secret. The staff was incredibly friendly despite the language barrier, and watching them work in the tiny kitchen was like observing a well-choreographed dance.

Street Food Adventures: The Good, The Weird, The Delicious 🍡

A-Zhu Peanut Ice Cream Rolls: A Rollercoaster of Flavors

You haven’t lived until you’ve watched someone make peanut ice cream rolls right in front of you. This stall is an iconic mainstay in Jiufen, it is called A-Zhu Peanut Ice Cream Roll! Imagine this: a thin crepe-like wrapper, filled with shaved ice cream, crushed peanuts, and- here’s where it gets controversial- fresh cilantro.

Look, I know cilantro is supposed to be this amazing herby somethin’-somethin’ that elevates everything, but to me, it tastes like bugs. There, I said it! I grew up in Southeast Asia, and a certain stinkbug smells EXACTLY like cilantro! 😭

So I politely asked for mine without the green stuff, and honestly? It was still an incredible experience. The combination of cold ice cream, crunchy peanuts, and the soft wrapper creates this amazing textural contrast that’s somehow both refreshing and satisfying. And no bugs for me 😜

Other Food Gems in Jiufen

A-Gan-Yi Taro Balls (Maps): One of the snacks most sought after in Jiufen, taro balls are a textural feast. The taro balls embody the perfect texture loved by the Taiwanese: QQ (chewy).

Jia Vin Bakery (Maps): Scallion nougat crackers! This uniquely Taiwanese snack is a definite must-try for any trip to this country. Sweet and soft nougat is sandwiched between two crispy scallion crackers. The balance between savory and sweet, crunchy crackers with sticky nougat is a very unique experience.

Souvenir Shopping: Pineapple Tart Success 🍍

Let’s talk about souvenirs that don’t suck. Jiufen’s small shops are packed with everything from generic trinkets to legitimate local specialties. After browsing through several souvenir shops, I struck gold with Vigor Kobo pineapple tarts*.

These weren’t your average airport gift shop treats- they were buttery, flaky pastries filled with sweet, tangy pineapple that actually tasted like, you know, real pineapple. Perfect for bringing a taste of Taiwan back home without breaking your luggage weight limit. They are also available in Taipei, and bonus tip: you can buy them with your lottery-winning EasyCard!

Other Souvenir Options:

• Traditional tea sets (if you’re feeling fancy)
• Local teas from the surrounding hills
• Handmade crafts in the gift shops (available all over old street!)

*Obviously non-sponsored!!

Jiufen Old Street

The Jiufen Old Street is the obvious main attraction for all tourists. We entered the old street from the entrance by a 7-Eleven.

This semi-covered street is lined by gift shops, restaurants, and snack shops!

The Magic of Red Lanterns and Tea Houses 🏮

Ah Mei Teahouse: The Instagram Darling

Everyone talks about Ah Mei Teahouse, and there’s a good reason why. This traditional teahouse, perched dramatically on the hillside, offers breathtaking views and that classic red lantern aesthetic that makes your Instagram followers incredibly jealous.

The Real Experience:Yes, it’s popular. Yes, it can get crowded. But there’s something genuinely magical about sipping tea while looking out over the expansive sea view, surrounded by the glow of red lanterns, especially when the mist rolls in from the surrounding hills. It’s touristy in the best possible way.

Is Spirited Away Based on Jiufen?

Hayao Miyazaki himself stated that the setting of Spirited Away is inspired by Edo-Tokyo Open Air Architectural Museum– a building that is located near his usual route. Miyazaki’s favorite exhibit was the public bathhouse in the museum, Kodakara-yu (pictured). You can’t deny, though, that Jiufen has siginificant similarities to the Spirited Away town.

The famous view of lantern-decorated teahouses is very pretty either way, and it made me feel like I was in the movie! When I first watched Spirited Away as a child, I was struck by the whimsical yet dark nature of his animes. The beautiful art style was remarkable as well, and I was instantly obsessed with Chihiro and Haku’s story.

I could not, for the love of God, get out this particular picture of Chihiro’s parents eating so much at the mysterious village and turning into a pig. Who knew I was going to come across a real-life copy of the dumplings someday?

Standing there, watching the red lanterns sway in the mountain breeze, you can absolutely see how this place captured Miyazaki’s imagination. It’s that rare moment when reality lives up to the fantasy.

Hidden Gems and Missed Opportunities 👻

The Ghost Museum Mystery

Jiufen has a ghost museum that I opted out of visiting. The rain, the atmospheric lighting, the creepy vibes.. it was all too much for this particular day. But if you’re braver than I am (which isn’t saying much), it might be worth checking out for a different perspective on local folklore.

Taking Refuge in the Theatre

Sometimes the best travel moments happen when you’re just trying to get out of the rain. I ducked into a small local theatre and ended up watching part of a traditional performance. It wasn’t planned, it wasn’t on any itinerary, but it was one of those authentic moments that remind you why spontaneous travel is the best kind.

The Journey Continues: Mountain Bus Adventures 🚌

Bus Drivers: The Unsung Heroes (and Adrenaline Dealers)

Here’s something nobody tells you about Taiwan bus drivers: they’re absolutely fearless. The ride through the mountain roads felt like being in a Fast and Furious movie, mountain edition. These drivers navigate hairpin turns and steep inclines with the casual confidence of someone picking up groceries. Hold on tight, embrace the experience, maybe skip the big meal before the ride, and enjoy the spectacular mountain views if you dare look out the window.

The beauty of a Jiufen day trip is that it pairs perfectly with other northern Taiwan attractions. From Jiufen, you can easily catch Bus 788 to Ruifang Station and continue your mountain adventure. The contrast between different mountain towns gives you a well-rounded taste of the region, but more on that later!

Practical Planning Tips for Your Jiufen Adventure 📱

Best Time to Visit

The weather in Jiufen can be completely unpredictable, especially in the mountains. What starts as a clear day in Taipei can quickly turn into a monsoon by the time you reach this mountain town. Clear days offer the best views and photo opportunities, while rainy days create a moody, atmospheric experience that’s honestly pretty magical too. Just make sure to pack accordingly! If you’re trying to avoid crowds, skip the major holidays and weekends, though honestly, part of Jiufen’s charm is in that bustling energy.

Early morning visits mean fewer crowds and better photos, late afternoon brings beautiful lighting for those famous red lanterns, and evenings offer the most magical atmosphere but expect more people. Choose your timing based on what matters most to you. Keep in mind that most public buses stop at 9 pm.

What to Pack

Taiwan’s mountain weather changes faster than a bus driver taking those hairpin turns, so layers are your best friend. A waterproof jacket or umbrella is absolutely essential, and comfortable walking shoes with good grip will save your ankles on those uneven stone steps. Don’t forget a portable battery pack because you’ll be taking way more photos than you planned, and having Google Maps downloaded offline can be a lifesaver when you’re wandering those narrow alleyways.

A translation app helps with menu reading, though pointing and smiling (say “zhe ge 👉🏻” for “this”) works surprisingly well too. Most importantly, bring your sense of humor and patience – cultural experiences are always better when you can laugh at the awkward moments.

Budget Planning

Getting to Jiufen via public transportation is incredibly affordable. Using your EasyCard or iPass card for buses costs approximately 100-150 NTD each way, making your total transport costs under 300 NTD for the entire day. That’s less than what you’d spend on a fancy coffee back home!

Food is where you can really control your budget. Street food ranges from 50-150 NTD per item, which means you can eat like a king without breaking the bank. A proper sit-down restaurant meal will run you about 200-400 NTD per person, while the full tea house experience costs around 300-500 NTD per person. Honestly, it’s worth splurging on at least one traditional tea house experience for the views and atmosphere.

Shopping for souvenirs can range from 100 NTD for small trinkets up to 500 NTD for quality local specialties like those amazing pineapple tarts. Plan on spending around 1,000-2,000 NTD per person for the entire day, excluding any shopping sprees. It’s remarkably affordable for such a rich cultural experience.👉🏻

Making the Most of Your Day Trip Experience 🌟

Photography Tips

The main old street during golden hour is absolutely stunning, especially when those red lanterns start glowing against the mountain backdrop. The narrow alleyways with their lantern displays create perfect atmospheric shots, and the panoramic views from tea house terraces are Instagram gold. Don’t sleep on capturing the street food vendors in action – there’s something mesmerizing about watching someone make peanut ice cream rolls or steam dumplings.

If you get caught in the rain like I did, don’t pack up your camera just yet! Rainy Jiufen has its own moody charm that’s actually pretty spectacular. Capture the reflection of lanterns on wet pavement, the steam rising from food stalls, and the dramatic mist rolling through the surrounding hills. Some of my favorite shots came from that unexpected downpour.

Cultural Etiquette

Being a respectful tourist in Jiufen mostly comes down to common sense and patience. The narrow pathways can get crowded, so be mindful not to block them while taking photos. Learning a few basic Mandarin phrases goes a long way, though locals are generally very patient with tourists trying their best.

In tea houses and restaurants, follow the lead of other customers and don’t be afraid to ask questions if you’re unsure about something. Most staff appreciate genuine interest in their culture, even if there’s a language barrier. Remember, every cultural misstep is just a story waiting to be told!

The Final Verdict: Why Jiufen Deserves Your Time (And Why You Need Part 2!) ⭐

After a full day of rain-soaked adventures, incredible food discoveries, and genuine moments of magic, I can confidently say that Jiufen Old Street lives up to the hype. But here’s the kicker: it’s only half the story!

What Makes This Series Special:

• Part 1 (you’re here!): Authentic cultural experiences in Jiufen, incredible food, and Studio Ghibli magic
• Part 2 (coming soon!): Sky lantern wishes in Shifen, train adventures, and completing your northern Taiwan experience

Sooo, What Makes Jiufen Special?

• Authentic cultural experiences alongside tourist attractions
• Incredible variety of traditional Taiwanese food
• Genuine historical significance from the mining town era
• Perfect setup for your Shifen sky lantern adventure
• That indescribable atmospheric magic that photos can’t quite capture

Real Talk: Yes, Jiufen is touristy. Yes, it can get crowded. Yes, the weather might not cooperate. But when you combine it with the Shifen experience (hello, Part 2!), you’re looking at one of Taiwan’s most complete day trip experiences.

Your Double-Feature Adventure Awaits! 🎋

Whether you arrive on a crystal-clear day with perfect mountain views or get caught in a torrential downpour like I did, Jiufen Old Street is just the beginning of an unforgettable northern Taiwan adventure.

Your Mission (Should You Choose to Accept It):

1. ✅ Conquer Jiufen’s red lanterns and pineapple tarts
2. 🚌 Catch that Bus 788 to Ruifang Station
3. 🚂 Board the train to Shifen
4. 📖 Come back for Part 2 to complete your sky lantern dreams!

The narrow alleyways, red lanterns, and steaming bowls of comfort food are just the appetizer. The main course? Sky lanterns floating into the mountain sky with your wishes written on them. Trust me, you’re going to want the full experience.

Ready to start your adventure? Grab that EasyCard, hop on Bus 965, and prepare for the first half of a day you’ll be talking about for years to come. The mountain roads, fearless bus drivers, and magical red lanterns are calling your name; and the sky lanterns are waiting for Part 2! 🚌✨

Don’t forget to bookmark this series and follow along for the complete northern Taiwan mountain adventure. Part 2 is coming soon, and trust me, you won’t want to miss what happens when we trade tea houses for train tracks and red lanterns for sky lanterns!

Check out more adventures! Sacred trees of Alishan, biking at Sun Moon Lake– and more in our Taiwan archives!

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