Jiufen & Shifen Day Trip from Taipei (Part 2)

Ever wondered what happens when a travel blogger meets a bus driver who thinks he’s in Fast & Furious? Strap on your seatbelt for my totally unfiltered adventure to Taiwan’s most magical wishing village Shifen! Don’t forget to check out my Jiufen guide in Part 1.🏮

I was sitting at home, scrolling through TikTok, and all of a sudden I saw people flying these glowing sky lanterns floating into a misty sky on my screen. It was mystical, magical, and just like something straight out of Spirited Away. I have heard of a neighboring city that was supposedly the inspiration for the movie, Jiufen, but not this one!

So that’s exactly how my Jiufen and Shifen adventure began – and boy, was it a ride (literally and figuratively).

Quick Shifen Reality Check 📚

Before we dive into my chaotic day trip story, let’s get the basics sorted. Shifen isn’t just about those famous red lanterns you see on Instagram (though they’re definitely the main event). This charming small village about an hour east of Taipei has managed to become one of Taiwan’s most beloved tourist attractions while somehow maintaining its charm. I do think that Taiwan as a whole has that old-world charm, with older buildings and extensive history coexisting with modern city-dwellers.

Expect crowds, especially on weekends and during peak times. The weather can be quite unpredictable in these mountains, so pack layers. Most importantly, prepare for some seriously winding streets, stairs, and curvy mountain roads that’ll test your stomach’s strength.

Check out my video on Shifen!

The Journey That Nearly Gave Me a Heart Attack 🚌💨

From Jiufen Old Street to Shifen: A Wild Ride

After spending the morning exploring the narrow alleyways of Jiufen Old Street (which honestly felt like stepping into Hayao Miyazaki’s cinematic universe), we decided to continue our mountain adventure to Shifen. The plan seemed simple enough: catch a bus from Jiufen Police Station to Ruifang Station, then hop on the Pingxi Line train to Shifen Station. Easy peasy, right?

WRONG.

Our bus driver had clearly missed his calling as a Formula 1 racer. Schumacher who? This absolute legend of a man took those tight winding streets like he was auditioning for the next Fast & Furious: Taiwan Drift movie. I’m talking hairpin turns at speeds that defied both physics and my sanity. My knuckles were white, my heart was doing the cha-cha, and I was simultaneously terrified and oddly impressed.

Nobody really spoke while the bus handles swing wildly, but we eventually got dropped of at Ruifang Station. We were able to use the EasyCard and iPass to get on and off the bus.

Pro Tip: Embrace the Chaos 🎢

Here’s the thing about public transportation in Taiwan – sometimes the journey is just as memorable as the destination. That bus ride became one of our favorite stories to tell. Sure, I thought I might meet my maker on a random Tuesday afternoon, but it was also hilariously exhilarating.

Practical Advice for the Motion Sickness Prone: Sit in the middle of the bus if possible to minimize swaying, keep some motion sickness tablets handy, focus on the amazing mountain views instead of the road, and remember that local drivers know these routes like the back of their hand. The bus stop at Jiufen can get crowded during peak times, so give yourself ample time for connections.

Arriving in Shifen: Welcome to Wishing Land 🌧️

First Impressions in the Rain

We finally made it to Shifen train station at around 3 PM, and honestly? It was nothing like I expected. Instead of the sunny, picturesque village from all those Instagram photos, we were greeted by a cold, steady drizzle and misty forested mountains that made everything look mysteriously beautiful – like we’d stepped into a different realm entirely.

Shifen Old Street was bustling despite the weather. Tourists huddled under colorful umbrellas, steam rose from food stalls, and the sound of the nearby train tracks added this perfect industrial-meets-traditional vibe that Taiwan does so well. The main street runs parallel to the rail track, creating this unique atmosphere where you have to cross active train tracks while shopping and eating.

Weather Reality Check ☔

Let’s be honest about Taiwan weather – it’s unpredictable, especially in the mountains. Our rainy day actually added to the ~mystique~, but here’s what you should know about visiting on rainy days.

The perks include fewer people (slightly), more dramatic photos, cozy indoor activities that feel extra special, and mist that makes lantern releases look even more magical. The challenges involve slippery streets (and train tracks), limited outdoor exploration, the need for waterproof gear, and some vendors might close early.

Eager to experience the city even in the midst of rain, we explore a bit further and saw this elementary school. They decorated the railings with artwork of the lantern and train- isn’t it the cutest?!

We were lucky that the drizzle was not too intense, so we could still fly the lantern.

What is There to See in Shifen?

Souvenir Shops

We (well, I) had a ton of fun exploring Shifen’s souvenir shops. I find that Taiwan’s gift shops have a lot of cute trinkets and creative illustrations. They usually have magnets, embroidered things, frames, and uh.. some questionable illustrations sometimes 😂

Check out these ..unique souvenirs, might be a great gift for phallic object lovers in your life (?) 😂

But in all seriousness, Shifen’s souvenir shops have surprisingly wide selection- we got a few lantern magnets ourselves!

Finding Comfort in a Cup 🦕🧋

Soaked and slightly shivering, our first mission was obvious: find somewhere warm and dry. That’s when we spotted this adorable little milk tea shop with a dinosaur mascot that looked like it could solve all our problems.

The owner, a young man who spoke limited English but would use the translate app, immediately recommended their signature ginger milk tea. And let me tell you – this was the perfect cure for the chilly weather. This was like a warm hug in liquid form, with just the right amount of ginger kick to chase away the mountain chill. Plus the cup has a lantern on it!! So cute.

Getting Lantern Vendor Recco 🫖

I’ve had milk tea all over Asia, but there’s something special about sipping a perfectly spiced cup while watching the raindrops hitting ancient streets. The ginger added this warming sensation that spread from your core to your fingertips – exactly what you need when you’re cold, wet, and slightly overwhelmed by the lantern attraction chaos. Multiple tour groups come and go, flying the lantern in turns after writing their wishes on them.

The milk tea shop owner gave us the most practical advice when we asked about the best lantern vendor: “They’re all the same, just pick one!” His casual honesty was refreshingly different from the usual tourist trap upselling you’d expect at popular spots like this.

The Main Event: Sky Lantern Dreams Take Flight 🏮✨

Choosing Your Lantern Adventure

After our tea pit stop, we were ready for the main attraction. We walked maybe 10 steps to the left and found ourselves at a bustling lantern shop right next to the tea place. The setup was impressive – they had sky lanterns in every color combination you could imagine, from traditional red lanterns to elaborate four-color designs, and the staff moved with the efficiency of people who’d done this thousands of times (they probably have, honestly).

The Lantern Experience: Magical but Mechanical 📸

Here’s where I need to be totally honest with you. The sky lantern experience in Shifen is absolutely magical, but it’s also incredibly touristy. Think Disney World level of organized tourism – everything runs like clockwork, the staff know exactly what they’re doing, and you’re definitely just one in a very long line of visitors having the exact same experience.

It did feel a bit ..impersonal.

The process goes like this: choose your lantern colors, which are available between 2-8. We went with 4 colors for maximum wish potential. Here are what the colors mean:

• Red: Health and Peace
• Yellow: Money, Wealth
• Blue: Career and Promotion
• Pink: Bliss, Joy
• Purple: Study, Test (success on an exam)
• White: Brightness of the future
• Orange: Love and Marriage
• Green: Strength and Success

Then you’re supposed to write your wishes on each colored section.

After that, let the staff guide you to the train tracks. They will set up the perfect photo and video angles, and prepare the lighter. They will then light it up and release into the sky. You, just watch your dreams float away into the mist and pray it will get far.

The Photography Game 📱

The staff at these lantern shops are absolute pros at capturing the moment. They knew every angle, every timing trick, and exactly how to make you look good holding a giant paper lantern. It felt a bit robotic – like they’d memorized the perfect formula for tourist satisfaction – but honestly? The photos and videos turned out amazing.

Don’t worry about posing because they’ll direct everything, and the release moment happens fast, so trust their timing. Ask for both photos and videos!

It’s worth noting that this isn’t exactly a single color affair – most people opt for the multi-colored lanterns because, according to local beliefs, the higher your lantern flies, the more likely your wishes will come true.

The Wish-Making Philosophy 🌟

There’s something genuinely moving about writing your hopes and dreams on a piece of paper and literally letting them go. Whether you believe in the folklore or just enjoy the symbolism, it’s a surprisingly emotional experience.

Our wishes ranged from silly (so much money we can bathe in it a la Uncle Scrooge) to serious (health and happiness for our families). Watching that lantern disappear into the gray sky, surrounded by dozens of others floating like little stars, was one of those travel moments that hits you right in the feels.

Street Food Adventures: Conquering Stinky Tofu 🥢

Breaking Down Barriers, One Bite at a Time

After our lantern release, we were ready to tackle another Taiwan must-do: stinky tofu. I’ll be honest – I’d been avoiding this particular delicacy throughout our entire Taiwan trip because, well, the name doesn’t exactly scream “delicious.”

But something about the cozy chaos of Shifen Old Street made me feel brave. Maybe it was the lantern-induced euphoria, or maybe I was just hungry enough to try anything, but we approached a busy street food vendor with determined (if slightly nervous) smiles.

Plot twist: it wasn’t stinky at all! At least, not the version we tried in Shifen. This particular vendor lady served their fried stinky tofu tofu with a perfect balance of crispy exterior and silky interior, topped with pickled vegetables and a sauce that had just enough kick to make things interesting.

Maybe the vendor noticed our obvious tourist status and gave us the “beginner-friendly” version, which was appreciated. Instead of the fermented, pungent variety that makes your eyes water, we got something that tasted like sophisticated comfort food.

I can definitely vouch for this Shifen stinky tofu stall!

Transportation Tips: Mastering the Taipei-Shifen Route 🚂

The Practical Stuff You Actually Need

Let me break down the transportation situation because this is where most people get confused. There are several ways to get from Taipei to Shifen, and each has its pros and cons.

The Direct Route: Take the train from Taipei Main Station to Ruifang Station, then transfer to the Pingxi Line local train to Shifen Station. Total time is about 1.5-2 hours, it’s very budget-friendly, straightforward and scenic, but can be crowded on weekends. You can check Google Maps for exact timing, but trains run frequently throughout the day.

The Scenic Combo: Take a bus from Taipei to Jiufen Old Street, then bus to Ruifang Station, then train to Shifen Station. This allows you to visit both Jiufen & Shifen in one day trip, takes 2-3 hours depending on connections, lets you see more locations, but is more complex and weather-dependent.

Tour Groups: Organized day trips that hit multiple locations require no planning and guarantee transportation, but offer less flexibility and can feel rushed.

My Honest Transportation Recommendation 🎯

If you’re doing a day trip and want to see both Jiufen and Shifen (which I highly recommend), go with the scenic combo but build in buffer time. The connections aren’t always perfectly timed, and you don’t want to stress about missing the last train back to Taipei City.

Consider that Ruifang Station serves as the main hub for both destinations, and there are plenty of taxis available if you need backup transportation. Just remember that taxi drivers might not speak English, so having your destination written in Chinese characters is a good idea.

Beyond the Lanterns: Other Shifen Attractions 🌊

Shifen Waterfall: Taiwan’s Niagara

While sky lanterns are definitely the main draw, Shifen Waterfall deserves a mention as one of Taiwan’s most impressive natural attractions. Known as the “Niagara of Taiwan,” this 20-meter-wide curtain waterfall is just a short walk from the main street.

The walk to the waterfall takes you through lush forest paths and over a suspension bridge, offering a nice break from the crowds on the main street. During our visit, the mist from the waterfall combined with the rain created this ethereal atmosphere that felt almost otherworldly.

Train Track Walking: A Unique Photo Op

One of Shifen’s most Instagram-worthy features is the ability to walk directly on active train tracks that run through the small village. The Pingxi Line train only passes through a few times per hour, so between trains, the tracks become a pedestrian walkway and photo opportunity.

Just remember to listen for train announcements and move quickly when trains approach. The local train isn’t fast, but safety first! The contrast between old rail tracks and traditional buildings creates some truly unique photo opportunities.

Night Market Finale: Raohe Street Food Magic 🌃

The Perfect End to an Imperfect Day

By the time we made it back to Taipei, we were tired, slightly damp, and running on pure adventure adrenaline. But our day wasn’t over yet – we had one more stop planned: Raohe Night Market.

Now, I’ve been to night markets all over Asia, but there’s something special about hitting one when you’re already in that travel-high state of mind. Everything tastes better when you’re exhausted and happy, and the chaos feels comforting instead of overwhelming.

The Fried Chicken That Stole My Heart 🍗

Among all the night market options – and trust me, there were hundreds – we zeroed in on this unassuming fried chicken stall that had a long line of locals waiting patiently in the rain. That’s always a good reason to try something.

The stall name is Out&Back Fried Chicken, and we asked for our giant cutlet to be split in half. They offer two flavors, and we gladly tried both of them!

The famed chicken cutlet were crispy perfection: juicy interior, crackling skin, and seasoned with something that made my taste buds do a happy dance. Standing there in the rain, sharing hot fried chicken with my travel companion while watching the organized chaos of a Taiwanese night market, I had one of those “this is why I travel” moments.

Look for food stalls with local customers, don’t be afraid to point and smile if language is a barrier, bring cash since many vendors don’t take cards, and come hungry because the variety is overwhelming.

Planning Your Own Shifen Adventure 📝

Timing is Everything ⏰

The best time to visit Shifen depends on what you’re looking for. Weekdays offer fewer people and a more relaxed experience, while early morning provides the clearest skies for lantern photos. Late afternoon gives you beautiful golden hour lighting, but avoid peak summer months when it’s too hot and crowded.

Seasonal considerations matter too. Spring from March to May offers perfect weather with occasional rain, summer from June to August can be hot and humid with frequent afternoon showers, fall from September to November provides ideal conditions with stunning colors, and winter from December to February is cool and misty with fewer people.

What to Pack for Your Day Trip 🎒

Essential items include a waterproof jacket or umbrella (trust me on this), comfortable walking shoes with good grip, a portable charger for all those lantern photos, cash for food vendors and lantern shops, and layers for changing mountain weather.

Optional but recommended items are a waterproof phone case, small backpack for purchases, hand warmers for winter visits, and snacks for the journey.

Budget Breakdown 💰

Here’s what you can expect to spend on a Shifen day trip from Taipei. Transportation costs include train tickets at $6-10 USD round trip and local bus fares at $2-4 USD. Activities include sky lanterns at $8-15 USD depending on size and colors, food and drinks at $8-10 USD, and optional souvenirs at $10-30 USD. Total estimated cost runs $40-80 USD per person.

The Real Talk: Is Shifen Worth the Hype? 🤔

Managing Expectations vs. Reality

Let me be brutally honest with you – Shifen is touristy. Like, really touristy. It’s not some hidden gem that only cool travelers know about. It’s a well-established tourist attraction that’s been optimized for maximum visitor throughput.

But here’s the thing: sometimes touristy experiences become popular because they’re genuinely special. The sky lantern tradition isn’t just Instagram bait – it’s a meaningful cultural practice that happens to photograph beautifully.

When Tourist Attractions Aren’t Actually Traps 🎭

The key to enjoying Shifen is adjusting your expectations. Don’t go expecting an authentic, untouched cultural experience. Go expecting to participate in a time-honored tradition that’s been adapted for modern visitors, and you’ll have a great time.

What makes it worth it: the lantern release is genuinely moving, the street food scene is excellent, the mountain setting is stunning, it’s accessible for all fitness levels, and there are great photo opportunities everywhere.

What might disappoint: crowds especially on weekends, somewhat mechanical and rushed feeling, unpredictable weather, and limited English signage in some areas.

Cultural Context: Understanding the Lantern Tradition 🏮

More Than Just Pretty Pictures

The sky lantern tradition in Taiwan has deep cultural roots that go way beyond social media appeal. Originally, lanterns were used as a communication method – a way to signal safety or call for help across mountain valleys. Over time, they evolved into symbols of hope and wish-making.

In Shifen specifically, the tradition took on special significance because of the town’s isolated location. Families would release lanterns to let distant relatives know they were safe, especially during times of conflict or natural disaster.

While the experience has become commercialized, you can still honor the cultural significance. Take a moment to seriously consider your wishes, respect the process even if it feels routine, learn a few basic phrases in Mandarin, be patient with crowds and staff, and remember you’re participating in something meaningful to local culture.

Photography Guide: Capturing Shifen Magic 📸

Beyond the Basic Lantern Shot

Everyone gets the standard “holding a lantern” photo, but here are some ways to capture Shifen’s unique atmosphere. Try low shots of lanterns against the sky, capture the moment of release (not just the posing), photograph street scenes with the old railway line, document food preparation at vendor stalls, and capture other tourists experiencing their lantern moments.

For lighting, remember that overcast skies actually create great even lighting, the golden hour before sunset is magical, night shots with lantern shops glowing look amazing, and you can use the railway tracks for leading lines in your compositions.

Weather Photography Opportunities 🌦️

Don’t let bad weather ruin your photo plans – embrace it! Rainy streets create beautiful reflections, mist adds mystery to mountain shots, umbrellas add color and movement to your frames, and steam from food stalls creates atmospheric effects that make photos more dynamic.

Making Connections: The Human Side of Travel

Language Tips for Better Connections 🗣️

A few Mandarin phrases will go a long way:  Ni Hao (你好) means hello, Duō shǎo qián? (多少錢?) means how much, Hěn hǎo chī (很好吃) means very delicious, and Xiè xiè (謝謝) means thank you.

One of my favorite parts of the Shifen trip was the small human connections – the milk tea shop owner’s honest advice, the lantern vendor’s patient explanations, the fried chicken seller’s proud smile when we obviously loved our food.

These moments remind you that behind every tourist attraction are real people living their daily lives, and sometimes the best travel experiences come from those brief, genuine interactions.

Alternative Shifen Experiences 🎯

If You Want Something Different

While most visitors stick to the main street and lantern experience, there are other ways to experience this area. Houtong Cat Village is just one stop away on the Pingxi Line train and offers a completely different vibe with hundreds of friendly cats roaming a former mining village.

Pingxi Station, the final stop on the line, is less crowded and offers hiking opportunities for those who want to escape the tourist crowds. The small shops and traditional teahouses there provide a more authentic local experience.

Combining with Other Attractions

Many visitors combine Shifen with other nearby attractions for a full day tour experience. Yehliu Geopark with its unique rock formations is about an hour away, the Golden Waterfall near Jiufen offers stunning scenery, and Keelung Mountain provides hiking opportunities with panoramic views.

If you’re based near Zhongxiao Fuxing MRT Station, you can easily access all these locations using public transportation, making it a great option for independent travelers who prefer not to join organized tour buses.

The Verdict: My Shifen Day Trip Experience 🌟

What I’ll Remember Forever

Looking back on our Shifen adventure, it wasn’t the perfect Instagram moments that stuck with me (though those were nice too). It was the combination of small imperfections that made it real: the terrifying bus ride, the unexpected rain, the mechanical-but-magical lantern experience, the discovery that stinky tofu isn’t actually stinky.

Travel doesn’t always go according to plan, and sometimes that’s exactly what makes it memorable. Our day wasn’t perfect, but it was a memorable one for the books (or diary!).

Would I Do It Again? 🔄

I do think that once is enough, but I am open to doing it with my other family members! Maybe I’d go on a weekday for smaller crowds, bring better rain gear, plan more time for food exploration, maybe skip the organized tour groups, and definitely ride that Mission Impossible bus again (kidding… maybe).

Final Recommendations for Fellow Travelers ✈️

Do this trip if you love cultural experiences with great photo ops, you’re comfortable with touristy activities, you want to check off a major Taiwan bucket list item, or you’re traveling with someone who’d enjoy the lantern experience.

Skip this trip if you’re looking for off-the-beaten-path adventures, large crowds make you uncomfortable, you’re on an extremely tight budget, or you only have limited time in Taiwan and want to focus on other experiences.

Wrapping Up: Why Shifen Deserves a Spot on Your Taiwan Itinerary 🎯

Here’s the bottom line: Shifen might be touristy, but it’s touristy for all the right reasons. It offers an accessible way to participate in a meaningful cultural tradition while exploring one of Taiwan’s most picturesque regions.

Sure, you’ll be one of hundreds of people releasing lanterns that day. Yes, the whole experience feels a bit commercialized. But you’ll also get to make a wish, send it floating into the Taiwan sky, and watch it disappear into the mist like something out of Spirited Away.

And sometimes, that’s exactly the kind of magic we need in our lives.

The journey from Taipei to this mountain village might test your nerves (thanks to those bus drivers), the weather might not cooperate, and the crowds might make you question your life choices. But at the end of the day, you’ll have stories to tell, photos to treasure, and the memory of a perfect cup of ginger milk tea on a rainy afternoon in the mountains of Taiwan.

That, my friends, is what travel is all about. ✨

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Have you experienced the magic of Shifen’s sky lanterns? Share your own stories in the comments below – I’d love to hear about your Taiwan adventures! And if you’re planning your own trip, don’t forget to pack that sense of humor and download Google Translate. You’re going to need both! 😄

Ready to plan your own Taiwan adventure? Save this guide (Part 1 and Part 2) and start dreaming of Ghibli towns, floating lanterns, and mountain villages. Trust me, your future self will thank you! 🏮🌟

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